A conversation with
Diane Ducasse
It was right in the heart of Montorgueil, in a building tucked away at the end of a courtyard, that we met designer Diane Ducasse. Her brand DA/DA is a wardrobe proposition that plays with masculine/feminine codes with boundless creativity. Diane welcomed us into her home, in its colourful and playful world, for a conversation about fashion and lifestyle.
Hello Diane, tell us a little about yourself and your journey...
I am the creator and founder of DA/DA Diane Ducasse, a high-end womenswear brand inspired by the male wardrobe. My starting point is this: we women are always borrowing from our men's wardrobes, so why shouldn't they fancy pinching our clothes for a change? I also bring that same relaxed, chic allure to the rest of the women's wardrobe, adding a touch of Japanese influence along the way. I began in fashion by studying at Studio Berçot. After studying at HEC and a spell in the United States, I was still finding my way, until I met an illustrator who reignited my love of drawing. Someone mentioned Studio Berçot to me, and I ended up going almost by chance. I learnt everything there, it was fascinating, and that's where I realised what I truly wanted to do. From there, I quickly moved through several internships and professional experiences at fashion houses. I worked at Lanvin, Marc Jacobs and Michel Vivien, then became the right hand of designer Vincent Darré. Together we created special issues for L'Officiel de la Mode magazine. I then went freelance, working notably with Inès de la Fressange, and alongside that, I created my own brand.
What, in your view, is the ultimate fashion faux pas?
Nude tights. And if they're worn with ballet flats or dreadfully old-fashioned mid-heel courts, that's a deal-breaker for me!
Is fashion part of the family DNA?
I wasn't brought up in a world linked to fashion, but rather in an artistic one. The women in my family are all very artistic, though they don't necessarily make a career of it. So it wasn't an obvious choice for me to turn my artistic streak into a passion-driven profession. My sisters found themselves facing the same dilemma. Our mother is also wonderfully hands-on: she's always painted, sculpted, made our costumes. Both my grandmothers studied fine art, which was rather modern for the time. As for my father, he's an entrepreneur, and that inevitably left its mark on me.
You're close to personalities like Vincent Darré and Inès de la Fressange, and Natalia Vodianova and Clara Luciani also wear DA/DA. Is it important for you to surround yourself with creative personalities, and what do they bring you?
It happens quite naturally, I don't go looking for it. Natalia Vodianova, for example, discovered my brand at Le Bon Marché. As for Clara Luciani, I'm a huge fan of hers, so I'm very proud that she loves certain pieces. Vincent Darré and Inès de la Fressange are my godfather and godmother in spirit, my lucky stars. They support me, follow my journey and encourage me. Yes, it's true that they inspire me enormously, and it nourishes me to have such personalities around me. Beyond our friendship, I admire them, and that's a real stroke of luck.
Can you tell us about your creative process behind putting together a collection?
There's no fixed rulebook, but when I see the fabrics, ideas come to me straight away, I can already picture my timeless pieces. I'm very attuned to materials and colours, in fact there's no black in my collections. I also tend to favour men's fabrics, as they're of better quality and more natural. To put it all together, I make everything in Paris. I try to create a quality product, timeless, built to last, with modern and Japanese-inspired touches. My influences come from everyday life. I love sitting on a terrace watching people go by, studying their style, their shapes and colours. I draw a lot of inspiration from films, exhibitions, travels, all things that have been rather limited these past few months, unfortunately. I also love observing icons like David Bowie, his extraordinary costumes, or the colours you find in Frida Kahlo's work, and so on.
We're here in your new flat. What drew you to this place, and how have you made it your own?
What drew me in was this wonderful living room, the light that pours in despite the buildings opposite, and above all the calm that reigns here. We're right in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement, but as we look onto a courtyard, it's utterly peaceful. As for the decor, I already had quite a few pieces of furniture, my other half didn't have much, so we sold some of my things and bought others together to make the space truly ours. We buy everything second-hand, as I love taking the time to choose pieces with history and character. I love mixing styles and influences, bringing a modern touch to the old.
« I love mixing styles and influences, bringing a modern touch to the old. »
You chose two By Charlot products for this flat: the Totem, created in collaboration with Emmanuelle Roule, and our iconic La Talentueuse. Could you tell us about your choice?
I love cacti, I find them exotic, they make me travel. La Talentueuse has real presence, she's dignified, and I love the fact that she's prickly, I can't bear anything too smooth. And she's easy to care for, which suits me down to the ground as I don't have green fingers... As for the Totem pot, it has a slightly Dadaist, surrealist air to it, like a little character with its tiny arms and tiny hair, which I find utterly charming. What's more, this pot reminds me of the influences I grew up with. I was raised in Réunion, where the local craftsmanship is extraordinary, and it inspires me enormously when it comes to light and colour.
You've had the chance to personalise the label, what did you write?
I wrote À DADA because I wanted this plant to be mine, but also my boyfriend's, part of this place. My brand is called DA/DA, he's called David, so we're both a bit DADA. And then there's a childlike touch to it that I rather like...
« La Talentueuse has presence, she's dignified, and I love that she has a bit of a sting to her, I can't bear anything bland. »
If you had to recommend three Instagram accounts of your choice?
There are so many, but I absolutely love seeing the photos of Louise Trotter, the artistic director of Lacoste. I'm a real fan of what she does: her approach to colour, her sense of aesthetics... I also have a friend who created the account Maggie on the Rocks, she's Spanish and has a knitwear brand. It's an account full of inspiration from her shoots and she has wonderful taste. And finally, Gilbert Kann, which is an interior design account. He posts photos of architecture that I find absolutely stunning.
Finally, could you share three small or large joys from your life as an entrepreneur?
The people I meet are part of it, which is rather rare and truly enriching day to day. Today, for instance, my working day is a shoot and a chat with you. I never know what tomorrow will bring. That can be a little daunting at times, but it's rather wonderful. I'm free to move about as I please, to work wherever I fancy. The great stroke of luck I've had recently is this collaboration with Monoprix. I didn't have the sometimes heavy daily grind I have as an entrepreneur, things like accounts, admin, strategic decisions, and I could focus purely on creative work. They gave me free rein, I could do exactly as I wished, and it was a real joy to feel that kind of trust placed in me. I had the chance to create objects, decor, children's clothing... So many things like that come along and brighten up what's often a stressful daily life.
